i havent posted too much on here, a few here and there... i just read and reread...with out this site/community, i couldnt have done it for sure. huge thanks.
got the 750 thats been sitting dormant for 15 years going on the simplified wiring diagram. its runnin rough, but its running...tomorrow is to be 70 degrees in
indy, so ill be out around brown county all day tomorrow on the chop... and ill tune the 750 over the next few days... thanks again everyone!
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night of the living dead.
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 onesickrace |
night of the living dead. |
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Posts: 15 (11/07/09 8:24 PM) |
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naguethey |
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Posts: 3172 (11/07/09 9:00 PM) |
That's what's cool about this site, is a complete ton of info to be shared. Glad ya gotter running man. Now go through the timing and make sure those
carbs are synced and it should run like a raped ape
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asphaltwarrior1 |
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Posts: 6709 (11/07/09 9:10 PM) Motor Mouth |
sweet man.. another rescued soldier ...
"dont mind me i'm just a big lennyhead" |
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onesickrace |
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Posts: 16 (11/07/09 10:21 PM) |
the pipes on 2 and 3 arent getting hot, culprits gotta be the plug wires into the plug boots... bad connection... when i press them in as the bikes running, i
can feel the 2 and 3 getting hotter instantly... ive got three sets of coils to choose from, so... tomorrow im bailing on a ride down into the kentucky
foothills to test and tune...rewire the bike so thats all cleaner too... sucks, but... i gotta do it, its sunday.
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naguethey |
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Posts: 3174 (11/07/09 10:46 PM) |
The carbs can do that too. If your carbs aren't set all the same your exhaust temps can vary a bunch.
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74rat |
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Posts: 5212 (11/08/09 4:28 AM) |
onesickrace wrote: I`m VERY surprized your not geting shocked..LOL, unless your using rubber handled pliers or something..anyway.. Them boots thread off...then you can cut back the end of the plug wires about 1/4 inch, then thred the boots back on..they commonly get corroaded there, and need this done.. (the spark plug boots, have threaded spikes in them, that thread into the end of the plug wires) 74rat when in doubt..knock`um out...(or wish ya had later!!)...H.C.C.M.F LOCAL 6978 Flint Michigan..3rd most dangerous city in the USA..come back and visit us..sorry we "missed" you the first time..LOL |
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onesickrace |
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Posts: 17 (11/08/09 7:46 AM) |
ha,yeah, my buddy got shocked on his sporty doing that, but no rubber handled anything... ive already cut the wires back a 1/4 inch and 2 and 3 are pretty
short... still super loose on the plug wires... have other coils, swapping them out today to see if i can get heat all over the place. and yeah, i just guessed
at the float levels in the carbs since the rubbers were super hard. i just wanted to get the bike started before i took the carbs off and sunk more time or
money into it. tody, the two non running bikes are getting a cleaner wiring harness and see what i can do with the 750 to get it running a bit smoother...
bolting the exhaust tight against the motor might help:) ahahah
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asphaltwarrior1 |
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Posts: 6717 (11/08/09 7:51 AM) Motor Mouth |
get your self a set of dohc coils,and then you can put some accel wires or other auto wires on them...works great...someone has a set of coils for sale cheap
too..like 25 bucks
http://hondachopper.yuku.com/topic/26038 "dont mind me i'm just a big lennyhead" |
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onesickrace |
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Posts: 18 (11/08/09 8:38 PM) |
cool, thanks, i messaged him just now. i messed with the bike all day, fixed and tightened up all the loose ends. got the 2 and 3 pipes to get hot for one
run... didnt change anything at all, just started heating up, but now its back to cold pipes on 2 and 3... the carb boots are rock hard, so im trying to avoid
diggin into the carbs until everything else is set, then ill have to cut them off. runnin out of funds as always. might have to wait til i get paid in december
to get new carb boots to put them back on.. we'll see though. basic question because im back and forth with my engineer friend. to set the points gaps, i
turn the crank with a wrench til its lined up with the "f" marker for 14 or 23 and set the gap of .012 on that "f" mark? or do i do as he
says and turn the crank with a wrench until the points are at their widest opening and wherever that is, set the points gap to that? the bike will kick over
with it set to .012 on "f" but it wont kick over as the second method i described... thanks again.
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Sasquatch |
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Posts: 4866 (11/08/09 10:52 PM) |
Only Bikers understand why dogs love to stick their heads out the car window................. 
When I die,I want to go quietly in my sleep like my Grandfather......  ...Not screaming and yelling like the passengers in his
car........ 
The Yeti chop |
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onesickrace |
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Posts: 20 (11/09/09 8:27 AM) |
sasquatch, thats good to know, my problem is that they are on the bike holding the carbs in place. ive applied my body weight on them to get them to budge, but
theres no moving them... and this is with the stock air box no where in sight... so im assuming ill have to cut them off...buy new ones then simmer those
before i put them on. thanks for the heads up.
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wrench55 |
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Posts: 2924 (11/09/09 11:16 AM) Senior Member |
A blow dryer or A heat gun will make them soft so they will come off
Wrench |
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lbpretorius |
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Posts: 804 (11/09/09 1:20 PM) |
Dear Race, that is ireal good, you must send nice fotos if you have a camera. I tell you, these Gentlemen make me come alive like you, looking forward for your
pictures.
Kind regards from Leon. |
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