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Decorative Brazing

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Author	Comment
OldSkuul	Decorative Brazing	Lead	[-]
Posts: 1 (05/11/08 12:06 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Just joined for a question that I have about Brazing over factory welds. I was hoping to smooth in all of the old welds but am having trouble getting the material to flow or even stick. I'm using flux coated brazing rods and have applied flux to the area, ground and filed everthing to bare clean metal and am using a Dillon Oxy/Acet torch. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Henry
the750sergeant		#1	[-]
Posts: 1082 (05/11/08 4:46 PM) Senior Member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	heat and flux is the key......it looks like your on the right path......just dont make the mistake of trying to ark weld on brass You can't "Chop" when you keep adding crap...
rakeNtrail		#2	[-]
Posts: 777 (05/11/08 5:14 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Instead of brazing you could try silver solder. Takes less heat and flows easier with a more definite "plastic" state.
Roadcat		#3	[-]
Posts: 169 (05/11/08 9:22 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	You're not getting the steel hot enough, plain and simple. Oxy/acetylene brazing and welding is a skill that is learned by making a lot of mistakes. There are many variables involved. Type of flame, size of flame, and the temperature of the parent metal are most important. The steel should be bright red to orange, 1600 to 1850 degrees F. Heating the bronze and dripping it onto the steel is not how it's done. Practice. Practice. If you haven't had molten metal inside your gloves, drip down your shirt, burn holes in your pockets and your socks, then you haven't practiced enough.
OldSkuul		#4	[-]
Posts: 2 (05/12/08 1:30 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Thanks for the answers, I usually find all I need on the "Search" I bumped up to a larger tip and heated a more general area which seemed to work fine! Now I feel like I have a big lump instead of an ugly perch motor mount. Some more practice ought to get it looking better... On the bright side I have managed to drip molten brass all over everything in sight, its amazing how it just rolls off and finds exposed body parts, ect.
cntrhub		#5	[-]
Posts: 1374 (05/12/08 2:32 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	I filled in a front fender tip that went down with a flat scrap to it. I did exactly like Roadcat did. I began to fill my gloves and toe jam burns right out if you hit the braze right damn right that hurts. But you are sorta proud you did work and fill it, file it down more down you get it then you get it chromed over and it almost... Almost looks like the other side. Now say you try to fill a rear fender someone drilled a rare fender for a tail light hole? Say the (chrome ear's) grinding wheel to clear the old chrome just made a slight pinhole or two you win some, you lose some toe jam is how you braze. The silver solder is maybe for non-powder coating? But say you hit that solder is not that hard to hold the indent the paint chip is now off and the solder is exposed. There is the ding embedded in the soft solder. Your call. Both take practice.

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